Rome February 1862

Diary of a Tour in Europe


Fannie O. Mann
From her loving husband
Rome, February 6, 1862


Rome February 11th/62
Walked to the Milvian Bridge, a celebrated spot in the history of Rome. It was near here that Constantine fought the great battle that made him master of the then known world, and where he saw the words “in hoc signo vinces” (in this sign you will conquer). We returned by the banks of the Tiber, and visited the Villa Doria, which unlike most of Rome, is kept with care and does not seem desolate.

Wednesday 12th
The Quarinal, one of the Seven hills is now mostly know as the “Monte Cavallo” owing to the equestrian statues, are said to be by Phidias, and the other by Praxiteles. They are so black from exposure and other bad treatment, that it is difficult to distinquish their original merits. Nearby is what remains of the temple of Mars that Augustus built to celebrate the battle against Brutus and Cassius at Philippi.
The ruins of the temple of Pallas in the forum of mercia are considered chaste specimens of ancient taste. The small brick tremple is that of Vesta, where the sacred fire - and Palladium were kept. Some consider it an old temple dedicated to Romulus, where mothers took their sick children to pray for their recovery, this customj like many other heathen ones is still observed, and has entwined itself with the catholic religion. One of the most interesting churches in Rome is that of St. maria in Cosmedin, built by on e of the early Popes under the emperor Gallien, after a successful issue of the second council at Antioche. In the vestibule is a large piece of marble with a face cut into it called “bocca della Verita” It was used by the Romans to prove a man’s innocence. If he could put his hands in the mouth without it being caught he was presumed “not guilty”.
The wonderful “cloaca maxima” still serves the Romans as it did their great ancestors. Pliny was amazed to see it in his days, it had been built 700 years, contemplating it eighteen centuries after Pliny, what should we think of it? The arch of “ Janus Quadrifrano” is seen as soon as you leave the Cloaca, We crossed the Ponte Rotto and passed through the Grand T? and the small island that Dacatus says was formed from the grain that fell in the Tiber. In the Piazza della Minerva is the church of Santa Maria Sopra Minerva, from its having been built over a temple dedicated to this goddess by Pomfiez. It is the only church that has something of the Gothic in its architecture. Statue by Michelangelo of our Saviour holding his cross. Monument of Leo X.

Friday 16th
I have never spoken of the Italians themselves or of their climate. In America, one hears so much of the mild air of Italy, that I have often thought to go there is a sure cure for any consumption. But wo to the poor invalid that come to this cold country. We were in Florence more than two months and the weather was mostly rainy and always cold. Snow fell several times, and one of our principal reasons in leaving was, because we had hope of finding it warmer in Rome. A few days since the snow fell here and the neighboring hills are I believe still covered. If during these cold spells the sun shines brightly, the English immediately complain of the “warm weather”.
The poor Italians know so little of solid comfort, that they cannot understand why a foreigner desires so many. Their own rooms are without carpet or fireplaces, and when it is very cold they fill a “veggis” (an earthern vessel) with coals, and place it in the middle of the room. In the street the women carry one under their aprons. We are living in an Italian family and I have never known them to be in anything but a good humour. The sister of our hostess waits on us, for which we pay two dollars a month. She is by no means as neat in her dress as our servant woman at home. But when her rich aunt (who is connected to the nobility having two sons in the “Guardia Nobile”! calls for her in her handsome equifrages(?), I have seen her look as fine as any lady. They have a strange dread of robbers here, the bell never rings without their calling out “shi e.”.
The morals of the upper class are said to be very corrupt, almost every woman in society is known to have her “cavalieri servante”, to which the husbands do not object. I fear the Italians are devoid of many of the higher principals, which I think is owing in a great measure to the corrupt state of their church. The men cannot believe in the superstitions that mostly compose their religion and I do not think they can trust in the relics, particularly such as these, “the milk of the virgin, some of the straw out of the Saviours cradle and the big toe of Mary Magdeleine.
The catholic church in Rome seems to be grafted on the old heathen foundation. In the Pope, we recognize the ancient Pontifex Maximus, a dignity the Emperors coveted and were proud to have it bestowed on them. The Vestal Virgins we see in the nuns. The heathen temples have been converted into churches, and representations of the ancient deities, into Madonna’s and saints. The statue of St. Peter, with one of it’s feet almost ______ away is in an old figure of Jupiter. The miracle working picture in the Pantheon, is said to have been changed from a picture of Venus to that of the Virgin. I have never before been so out and out a protestant surrounded as I am by what is called, all the splendour of the catholic church. In other countries there is a mash thrown over its real features; here it has fallen , and the vile thing stands forth in all its rottenness. When the Eternal City falls into the hands of Victor Emanuel, some reform must take place. He will at least turn half the monks into the army, as he has done in Tuscany, and the immense territories now belonging to the fat Cardinals will restored to its natural owners.
The Italians amuse themselves as most other people do. They are fond of the opera and theatre and are great gamblers. I have often noticed a crowd of workmen in the streets seated in a ring playing cards. Lotteries are very frequent and are open until midnight; the papal government adopts this form of gambling as a source of revenue. Those in Rome who can afford it ride of course in handsome equifrages. Sunday evening is the fashionable hour, they then ride slowly up and down the Corso; my first impression upon seeing this long line of carriages, was that an immense funeral was passing.

Saturday 22nd
The Carnival has commenced, and we have been initiated. Returning from the delightful Villa Borgese, I insisted upon passing through the Corso to see how the Carnival was progressing. Gay colored curtains were hung out of all the windows and crowds were collected at them to field(?) the first worthy object they saw. The mere fact of our being well diefied and of our walking so unsuspectingly through the Corso, was enough to make us ? for all the bon bons in a few moments a shower of them fell beating against our faces cloaks and hats, we made our escape by a cross street into the “Via Ripetta” and got home in time to see the procession of senators ? In gilt coaches attended by a handsome troop of “guardia nobile” This is an indication that the carnival has indeed commenced. Shortly afterwards the banners are carried by, which are given during the eight days to the horse that wins the race. At five in the evening we took seats in the Piazza del Popolo and waited for the race. The Corso was but one sea of heads; presently the way is cleared by soldiers and a troop of horseman gallop down to the Piazza de Venezia in order eventually to get everyone out of the way. The “barberi” now appear these are the men who hold the poor horses infuriated by spurs and other more cruel instruments which are tied about them in order to make them run faster . In an instant they break loose and dash through the Corso, often killing one of the Barberi and sometimes injuring others of the crowd.

Monday 26.
Visited the Palazzo Orsini, very large collection of pictures, a fine “Ecce Slomo” by Guercino, several by Guido, one or two Titiens. Church of St. Maria della Pace, Raphael fresco of the four Sibyls. Church of the St. Augustin, the first object I saw was a statue of the Virgin held in great reverence. She was decked out in ex votos, with a crown in her head, and she was surrounded by her votaries. We could not see Raphael’s picture owing to repairs which were being made in that part of the church.

Thursday 27th
Those Romans who are opposed to the government take no part in the Carnival and instead of going on the Corso they choose some other “rendezvous”. The Forum and Coliseum were chosen today, and the immense crowd there congregated was to oppose the papal authority. We remained until after four but as the crowd was perfectly quiet and seemed to dream of nothing but a walk, we grew tired of the monotony and went to the “rifresca” in the Piazza de Veneiza. The horses are perfect? Rosianantes and although they start of quite well, it is only the winner who exerts himself in the least at the “rifresa”, the others are aware of their defeat and are sensible enough not to t attempt to run, they trot up with perfect composure and allow the “barberi” to catch them.