Brussels November 1862

Monday November 3rd
Father has just received an important letter from Mr Slidell in which he gives an account of his second emperor of the French. Napoleon showed him an autograph letter from King Leopold in which he urged the recognition of the South. The Kings letter was dated October 15, a few days after Father’s note to M. Rogier, which was doubtless shown to His Majesty. Pa left at 2 yesterday for Paris and London; something important will result from this trip.

Wednesday 4th
Willie went with Eva La Conte & myself to Antwerp. The town is on the Escault (Scheldt), the docks were constructed by Napoleon, and can receive two thousand ships. The women have “lappels” on their capes which hang down their cheeks and over this some wear a shocking(?) straw bonnet which stands on their head like a pyramid The cathedral of Notre Dame has never been finished and although the interior is grand I do not admire its spire as much as that of the Hotel de Ville” in Brussels. Rubens “chef d’oeuvre” The Descent from the Cross” charmed me more than anything I have yet seen of his works. “The elevation of the cross” I did not lik(sic) so much. Fine carved wood, the pulpit especially. In front the cathedral a work in iron by a blacksmith Quentin Matozs. In one of the side chapels is a face of our Saviour on marble, said to be by Leonardo da Venci, it is full of purity and resembles other works of this great master. Rubens is buried in the church of St. Iagnies. There is here a touching picture of the “Saviour Crucified” by Van Dyck. On entering the church of St. Paul there is a strange representation of Mount Calvary, built by a converted Jew. The ordeal of Purgatory is a frightful thing, and I expect most ignorant people willingly throw a few centimes in the box near the scene , to buy relatives out of this place of torment. In the church is a picture the “Scourging of Christ” by Rubens. Teniers, Van Dyck, Sneiders and Jordaens were born in Antwerp.